Visit to The Middle of Nowhere in France, Coco Chanel & Costumes Coming to Life!

Shri R. Amarasinghe
5 min readOct 4, 2023

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Textile Trails — Tales from an Explorer’s Journal

Journal Entry #2 — October 4, 2023

The best memories are often made on unplanned trips

In 2019, my friend Aurélié and I decided to attend a karma yoga retreat in Cérilly. (For those of you who don’t know what a karma yoga retreat is, Karma Yoga is referred to as the yoga of selfless service or action. In a Karma Yoga retreat, participants engage in activities and practices that emphasize selfless service, volunteering, and making a positive impact on the world without expecting anything in return)

When I asked my friends where Cérilly was, they would laugh and say “Middle of nowhere in France”. I quite didn’t understand it until we ended up in the middle of nowhere without a bus for the next four hours. We left Paris early on that day in a BlaBlaCar. The driver was a friendly guy, and we kept talking (bla bla) for three and a half hours and reached the town of Moulins to realize that we had another half-hour journey and there was no bus scheduled to Cérilly for another few hours.

We checked if there was anything we could do in Moulins. (Moulins was named after the many mills that were once located along its river. Moulins is a very common name in France, so to avoid any confusion, it is often called Moulins-sur-Allie)

Me in the city center of Moulins, France

A simple Google search revealed that Moulins was the city where Gabrielle became Coco — YES! The ever-famous Coco Chanel. I was amazed. As a young girl, I adored Coco Chanel. She has always been such an inspiration for me because Chanel’s designs aimed to empower women. She believed that fashion should serve the wearer, not constrain her. By popularizing comfortable and practical clothing, she liberated women from the corsets and cumbersome attire of the early 20th century, allowing them greater freedom of movement and self-expression.

Knowing that I was in the very place where Coco Chanel learned about the details of clothing and textiles exhilarated me. And to find out that there’s a huge costume museum 300m away was just the cherry on top.

Centre National du Costume de Scène

In the heart of France, nestled in the charming town of Moulins in the Auvergne region, lies a hidden gem that seamlessly combines the worlds of fashion, history, and the performing arts. The Centre National du Costume de Scène, or CNCS, stands as a testament to the exquisite craftsmanship and artistry that bring theatrical performances to life. This unique institution offers a captivating journey through the evolution of costume design and its indelible impact on the world of theater.

A Storied Beginning

The Centre National du Costume de Scène was inaugurated in 2006, making it a relatively recent addition to France’s cultural landscape. However, its origins can be traced back to the passion of one remarkable woman, Annie Guedras. Guedras, a renowned costume designer, recognized the need to preserve the invaluable legacy of costume design for the performing arts. Her vision led to the creation of CNCS, a one-of-a-kind institution dedicated to the preservation and exhibition of costumes from the world of theater, opera, and ballet.

A World of Costumes

Visitors to the CNCS are greeted by a breathtaking collection of over 10,000 costumes, making it one of the largest and most comprehensive costume collections in the world. These costumes, carefully curated and meticulously maintained, span several centuries and represent a diverse array of styles, periods, and artistic movements.

Walking through the museum’s halls is like stepping into the rich tapestry of theatrical history. From opulent Baroque attire to avant-garde contemporary designs, the costumes on display encapsulate the evolution of fashion and stagecraft. One can marvel at the intricate details of a Shakespearean doublet, admire the elegance of a prima ballerina’s tutu, or be transported to the roaring 1920s through the wardrobe of a Great Gatsby production.

Behind the Scenes

What sets CNCS apart is its commitment to not only showcasing costumes but also unraveling the mysteries behind their creation. The museum offers visitors a unique opportunity to explore the often-hidden world of costume design. Workshops and exhibitions reveal the craftsmanship, tailoring techniques, and artistic vision that go into every costume, enriching the visitor’s appreciation of the performing arts.

Celebrating the Masters

CNCS also pays homage to the talented costume designers and creators who have left an indelible mark on the world of theater. It hosts special exhibitions dedicated to iconic figures such as Christian Lacroix, Karl Lagerfeld, and Yves Saint Laurent, showcasing their contributions to costume design.

A Hub of Education and Research

Beyond its role as a museum, CNCS serves as a center for education and research in costume design. It offers workshops, lectures, and symposiums for professionals, students, and enthusiasts alike. Researchers and scholars flock to CNCS to access its extensive archives and delve into the history of costume design.

A Cultural Jewel of France

In its relatively short existence, the Centre National du Costume de Scène has emerged as a cultural jewel of France. It not only celebrates the craftsmanship of costume designers but also underscores the profound influence of fashion on the world of theater. Its commitment to education, research, and the preservation of cultural heritage ensures that the legacy of costume design continues to shine brightly.

For those who have a passion for the performing arts, fashion, or history, a visit to CNCS is an unforgettable experience. It is a place where costumes come to life, where the stage meets the runway, and where the magic of theater is celebrated in all its glory. In the heart of France, CNCS stands as a testament to the enduring power of artistry, creativity, and the transformative world of costumes.

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Shri R. Amarasinghe
Shri R. Amarasinghe

Written by Shri R. Amarasinghe

An Engineer, Yogi, Artist & CEO - I'm all of this and nothing.

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